Tires
They don’t walk on snow and ice in sandals - the car also needs to be changed for the winter. We wrote about winter tires more than once, so we will briefly recall only the main points.
Tires with M+S markings are designed for winter (Mud+Snow – "Mud+Snow"), Winter ("Winter") or W. These inscriptions are sometimes accompanied by pictograms in the form of a snowflake or a cloud.
It is better to choose tires that are narrower than those that you drive in the summer - naturally, within the size range allowed for your car. The tread has to push through snow and mud to a hard surface, and narrow tires do it better.
It is undesirable to drive in winter on all-season tires - those that are marked with AS indices (All Seasons – "All Seasons") or A.W (Any Weather – "Any weather").
"Winter" their opportunities are weak; they can be considered all-season in the full sense of the word only if we are talking about Europe with little snow, and not about Russia. This applies to a lesser extent to rubber for SUVs. It is in all-weather performance significantly "more winter", than a passenger car. If you have an SUV, AS and AW tires in winter are acceptable. But, of course, worse than M+S or Winter.
Studded tires grip better on ice and snow than non-studded tires. But on clean pavement, when braking on spikes, the likelihood of wheel blocking, skidding and stopping distance increase: steel spikes glide well on asphalt. The danger also lies in the fact that drivers blindly believe in spikes and, braking on asphalt, expect the same stranglehold from them as on ice. By the way, non-studded winter tires of new generations on slippery surfaces behave almost no worse than studded ones.
Some put studded tires for the winter only on the drive wheels. And on the followers they leave... summer. Don't do it, it's dangerous. On a slippery road, the probability of demolition of a non-studded pair of wheels is very high, even in relatively harmless situations - the coefficients of adhesion and resistance to side slip are too different.
Do not hiss tires anywhere. This is a responsible process that requires good equipment and specialists. Skewed, insufficiently or excessively recessed studs in the rubber increase tire wear. And, of course, they do not contribute to safety.
Engine
The main problem in winter is starting a cold engine. More often it occurs in carburetor engines, but in severe frost, the owner of a car with an injection engine can also encounter it. The reasons are known - thickened oil, a drop in battery capacity and poor evaporation of gasoline. We will consider oils and batteries separately, but for now - a few words about the experience of countries with a cold climate, where pre-start electric heaters are widely used - such "boilers" in the engine cooling system. I drove up to the house or office, plugged the plug into the socket, turned on the timer... By the right time, the engine will be warmed up, and some designs also provide interior heating.
Electric heating devices have been presented on the Russian market for several years. The most popular are Finnish heaters, which can be equipped with timers. The cost including installation is about $250. For about $100 you can buy a home-made heater (for VAZ models and "Volga"), but there is no timer for it.
The main disadvantage of electric heating is that a house or office needs to have a special shield with a socket. This is good for the Finns, but we have the appropriate infrastructure, if it appears, then not soon and not everywhere. Another way out is an autonomous liquid fuel heater, which is also built into the engine cooling system and works on the principle of a hot water boiler. Fuel for it is gasoline or diesel fuel, depending on what your car engine is running on.
Autonomous heaters manufactured by Eberspacher, Webasto, as well as products of the Shchadrinsk auto-aggregate plant are presented on the Russian market (SHAAZ).
You can install the heater at specialized stations, of which there are already quite a few both in Moscow and in Russia as a whole. Warm-up time - no more than 15 minutes, while only 200 g of gasoline or diesel fuel is spent. Such heaters (besides the timer) can be equipped with a remote control device. The cost of an autonomous heater in the Russian market is about $1000.
The benefit of heating systems also lies in the fact that when they are used, the engine resource increases. For reference: each start of a cold engine at -20°C is equivalent to a run of 800 km. By the way, according to modern views, the motor will reach operating temperature faster, and its wear will be less if, after starting, you do not stand still, but start moving as quickly as possible, avoiding, of course, excessive load on the engine.
Oil
Oil changes are usually made in relation to the mileage of the car, and not to the season. But since oil is changed on average every six months, why not do it in anticipation of winter?
The vast majority of modern motor oils are, to one degree or another, multigrade. It is believed that it is necessary to fill in what is prescribed by the manufacturer in the car's operating instructions. But winters are different - both slushy-warm and bitterly frosty. And it is not at all clear whether the manufacturer assumed that his car would be operated in the conditions of the Russian winter, and that he would need oil "colder".
If you decide to deviate from the instructions, when choosing an oil, you can use a simple trick to determine its temperature suitability - for safety. Let's call this trick "rule 35".
The marking of engine oil must include the designation of its viscosity class according to the SAE scale. For example: 15W-40. This means that this oil, in terms of viscosity at sub-zero temperatures, meets the requirements for winter oils of class 15W, and at positive temperatures - for summer oils of class 40.
Remember the number 35. If you subtract from it "winter" viscosity class index, in our example it is 15, then we get a value called the limiting pumpability temperature, i.e. the temperature at which the oil still retains fluidity.
35 - 15 = 20. This means that 15W-40 oil can be used at temperatures down to -20°C.
Accordingly, the less "winter" viscosity index, the oil "colder". 10W - up to -25°C; 5W - up to -30°C.
That's what it is "rule 35". Simple and useful.
Battery
The frost has hit, and the battery, which had been briskly turning the starter yesterday, refuses to do it flatly. No wonder - when was the last time you charged it?
If the battery is relatively young (up to 3–4 years), then on the eve of winter it is enough to wash it outside, clean the terminals and fully charge it - if the car has been constantly used in the city, the battery charge is probably far from nominal. If the battery is old and does not charge to its nominal capacity, change it without hesitation, otherwise it will surely let you down in winter - the capacity drops so much with decreasing temperature, and then there is also increased energy consumption - a heater, heated seats, lights, wipers, rear window heater...
By the way, according to experts, the average duration "full life" the battery is about twelve months, then gradual fading begins. And the peak of sales of starter batteries, according to sellers, falls just in the fall.
The times when the car owner was knocked down in search of a new battery are long gone - the variety of brands and models on store shelves dazzles the eyes. Which one to choose is a personal matter for everyone. We only note that two price groups can now be distinguished on the market - batteries costing over $ 60 (usually up to $100), For example, "Bosch", "Steco", "American", "Fiamm", and batteries under $60 ("Mutlu", "Inci", "Centra", "SAEM" etc.).
The higher prices of batteries of the first group are determined by the more advanced technology of their production. These batteries are generally categorized as maintenance free. Special types of electrolytes and hermetic design of such batteries increase their service life and provide high starter currents that guarantee engine cranking even in severe frosts. Leading manufacturers now make it mandatory to use wafer stacking technology, which avoids short circuiting the battery in the event of a battery failure.
Cheaper batteries require periodic maintenance - checking the density of the electrolyte and measuring its level. Recall that the electrolyte density for the winter period should not be lower than 1.29.
Often, when buying a new battery, they try to choose it with a larger capacity, just to fit into the space allotted for it. But capacity is not the point. Much more important is the starter current provided by the battery. After all, even for a battery with a large capacity, this indicator (due to high resistance) may be lower than a battery with a lower capacity. In addition, a battery with a larger capacity requires a higher charging current, which your car's alternator will not provide, and the battery will be discharged more and more during operation, which will have a deplorable effect on its service life.
By the way, if you buy a battery that differs from the standard one, pay attention to the location of its terminals - batteries come across "reverse polarity", to the terminals of which the wires of your car may not reach.
Ignition system
If you have a new foreign-made car, and even with an injection engine, you don’t have to read further. But if the car is used, with a carburetor engine, then it's a different matter. Actually, the power supply and ignition systems are not connected with each other. But on modern injection engines you will not find either the memorable mechanical distributor or the breaker contacts. And on carburetors - as much as you like. And in order not to mess around later in the cold, the contacts must be cleaned, the distributor cap - too (better to replace). Better yet, replace the classic ignition system with an electronic one (if there are still car owners who have not done this).
Don't forget high voltage wires. After a couple of years of driving on our "salty" it is advisable to change them on roads, and it is better to use wires with a silicone sheath, which are less sensitive to temperature changes. In addition, frost does not form on them, which is often the reason for the absence of a spark. By the way, a common cause of ignition problems can be corrosion or poor tightening of the battery terminals.
Separately - about candles. Usually they are changed after 15–20 thousand kilometers, i.e. once every one and a half years (we do not take ultra-modern ones that can withstand 100 thousand km or more). No need to save on candles - ignite, clean and adjust gaps. Change at least once a year - it's inexpensive. And put new ones on the eve of winter. Fuel system
Often it is the cause of unsatisfactory engine operation in winter. And all - because of the accumulated water condensate in the fuel tank. If there is a drain plug in the tank, you can simply drain the water, if not - "neutralize", using the so-called "moisture displacers". Almost all leading manufacturers of auto chemical goods present on the Russian market (STP, Loctite, WynnXs, Aspokem), offer similar drugs that are poured into the fuel tank and gradually clean the power system.
It will not be superfluous to put in a new fine fuel filter, clean the carburetor, and if the engine has an injection system, make sure the injectors are clean.
Owners of diesel foreign cars, especially if the car was previously operated in a country with a mild climate, should take care of equipping the fuel system with special heating devices. Practice shows that it is difficult to start a diesel engine at -20°C, as the fuel loses its fluidity (how much "winter" is diesel fuel, which we sell in winter - one can only guess). One of the effective measures is the use of heated fuel drives and filters. At the same time, it is possible to start a diesel engine even at -40°С. Heating is carried out by elements that are powered by a standard battery.
The current consumed by them is about 5A, the inclusion of heaters for 5–10 minutes has practically no effect on the battery capacity.
Body
Winter is not the best season for a car, especially when driving through streets heavily sprinkled with salt. It is during this period that the body is exposed to corrosion to the maximum extent, and its anti-corrosion treatment is highly desirable. However, according to the employees of some authorized service centers, for a number of new foreign cars, especially those with a galvanized body, factory processing is quite enough. But if you have, say, a new Skoda (not to mention domestic cars), then experts recommend a complete anti-corrosion treatment of the bottom, wheel arches and body cavities.
It will also be useful to install fender liner.
The cost of a complex of these services averages $250-300 and depends mainly on the type of protective drugs used. There are a lot of them on our market now. But first of all, it is probably worth paying attention to those that are used in countries with a climate similar to ours. These can be Finnish Mercasol AL with aluminum additives, Swedish Noxudol on a metallized basis, Canadian Rust stop or Tektyl.
Anti-corrosion treatment requires strict adherence to technology, and although almost all manufacturers of protective materials produce them in packaging for domestic use, it is still preferable to carry out the treatment in a specialized service center. It is worthwhile to find out in advance by what technology it is produced. In any case, before applying a protective coating on the bottom and arches, the machine must be cleaned of dirt, washed and thoroughly dried.
Since you have been doing anticorrosive treatment for several years, it is better to be present near the car and personally observe this process.
Winter is a difficult test for body paintwork. Sudden temperature changes, snow mixed with salt, ice crust - all this leads to the appearance of microcracks in the paint. The surface of the body can be protected with a special compound suitable for use at low temperatures, such as Plus Teflon or Color Magic. Treatment with these preparations is carried out approximately once a month - after the obligatory washing of the car and drying it.
The question of where to keep the car in winter is actually usually not worth it - those who have a garage keep it in the garage, those who do not have it on the street. Oddly enough, from the point of view of the safety of the body (against corrosion, not against theft), between trips and at night it is better to leave the car on the street - with a cold body, the corrosion process is slower. In a cold garage, the heat generated by the car is enough to warm it up a little, and the melted snow and salt are actively doing their dirty work for some time. Well, in a warm garage, even if you thoroughly washed the car from salt from below, it will stand wet all night...
Glass
Visibility is not only comfort, but also safety. Therefore, it is hardly worth recalling that the windshield wipers, blowing and heating the windows must be in good order. Throw away brushes that leave matte stripes on the glass. And when buying new ones, try to choose branded ones - Bosch, ITE, Champion... Residents of the northern regions can try heated brushes that are connected to the on-board network - they have recently appeared on sale.
Another element of active safety is the side rear-view mirrors. In winter, they have to be cleared daily of ice crust or snow. At the same time, their initial installation is lost, which causes additional trouble. With an extra $250, you can install electrically heated and power mirrors that will make communication with the car more enjoyable.
Now directly about glasses. It is better to entrust their examination to a specialist, but personal control will not hurt either. After all, even a small chip on the windshield in the first frost after the autumn rain will turn into a full-fledged crack. Existing repair technologies make it possible to eliminate such a defect without removing the glass. It is easier and cheaper than glass replacement - repair (crack removal) 10 cm long will cost $ 50, and new glass and its "insert" - at least $350.
Another one "winter" The problem is the fogging of the windows. With a good ventilation system, it rarely occurs, but... It helps to use anti-fogging fluids, for example, Anti-Fog or Never Fog, which are enough to be applied to the glass once a week.
Consumables
All consumables, including antifreeze and brake and clutch hydraulic fluids, have a life span. If even the slightest doubt arises, it is not necessary to take a portion of the antifreeze that has turned brown or green from old age from the radiator and put it in the freezer for testing. Replace antifreeze. And do not save money by buying dubious drugs without labels and certificates - it will cost more.
No less careful should be approached to the choice of non-freezing glass washers. This is in the countryside at -20°C - dry and clean snow under the wheels. And in Moscow, even in severe frost - a dirty greasy slurry, which the brushes willingly smear on the glass, turning it into an opaque whitish film. Therefore, the supply of fluid in the washer reservoir is an indispensable condition for safe driving. But when buying a liquid with a freezing point of -20°C, do not flatter yourself and do not try to dilute it, even if it is -10°C outside. Practice shows that on the move, liquids with a freezing point of -40°C freeze on the windshield even in ten degrees below zero, if the glass is not heated (again to the question of the health of the ventilation and heating system).
Anti-freeze washer fluids usually contain additives that effectively remove dirt and clean glass. Some of them, it is true, foam too much, but they are also much better than cheap vodka, which many people preferred to pour into a tank last winter. She only smells in the combat cabin, and she doesn’t clean the glass well...
Well, that's probably all. If you follow at least some of these recommendations, your car will feel better this winter. And you are with him.