For re-varnishing, the same paintwork is necessary, because the slightest color differences after work are immediately evident. The corresponding paint tone is indicated by the manufacturer on the type plate as the varnish number. The rating plate is located in the engine compartment on the front wall.
If there is still a difference between a branded varnish and a repair varnish, this is due to the change in color of the varnish during the operation of the car as a result of aging, ultraviolet solar radiation, extreme temperature fluctuations, weather conditions and chemical influences, for example, industrial emissions. In addition, damage to the surface of the lacquer, discoloration and fading occur if the lacquer is maintained and cleaned using unsuitable products.
Metallized lacquer coating consists of two layers, metallic base lacquer and colorless top lacquer. In the lacquering process, a colorless lacquer is applied on top of the wet base lacquer. The risk of color differences when reapplying a metallic lacquer is particularly high, since here the different viscosity of the repair lacquer compared to the original lacquer leads to color differences.
Elimination of damage from stone impacts
To avoid major repairs caused by rust, minor damage to the paintwork should be repaired regularly.
To eliminate small scratches and traces of stone impacts, which only break the top varnish and do not penetrate to the tin, in general, a treatment with a varnish pencil is sufficient. Along with it, varnish in tubes with a brush also helps, and self-adhesive varnish film is also available for sale, if the damage is very minor or affects only the primer.
Deeper stone impact damage, which is already rusting, is cleaned with rust removers, a knife, or a small screwdriver until clean tin appears. It is very important that even small rust spots do not remain at all. Rust removers are small plastic sleeves fitted with a short wire brush to scratch out the rust.
Cleaned areas must be thoroughly dried and degreased. To do this, clean the repair site and the surrounding varnish with a silicone remover.
Apply a little lacquer primer to the cleaned metal surface with a thin brush ("Primer"). Since the primer is usually commercially available in an aerosol can, apply a little primer to the lid of the package and dip the brush into it.
After the primer has dried, cover the repair area with varnish from a can of varnish for plugging. In such packages, the brush is built into the lid. If only one aerosol can with the appropriate paint is available, spray a little paint onto the lid and finally apply a thin layer of varnish with a brush. Always apply only a thin coat of lacquer so that it does not run. Finally, let the paint dry well. Carry out the varnishing process until the recess is filled with varnish and is visible at the level of the surrounding varnished surface.
Elimination of deformation of the body / removal of shells from corrosion
Small holes can be repaired with a straightening hammer and a suitable hand anvil. In case of recesses in the body from rust, it is recommended to replace the damaged part as a whole, depending on the extent of the damage, or to weld sheet steel.
Elimination of body deformations
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Small indentations are straightened with a straightening hammer. At the same time, on the other side of the recess, hold a manual anvil. Don't hit the anvil too hard with the hammer, or the tin will bend and not be smooth. Work from the edge towards the middle.
Periodically check the leveled surface with your hand until it acquires the desired shape. Fill small surfaces later.
From the repair site after leveling, carefully remove the remnants of rust and old varnish with coarse sandpaper (120), stretched over the wheelhead, or polish with a cloth wheel. Tape off nearby decorative films or plastic parts with duct tape to prevent them from being accidentally scratched during polishing.
Preparation for varnishing
Wash your car before painting.
Lacquering should be carried out only at temperatures above +12°C, avoiding direct sunlight and wind.
Rust removal
Paste the repair area with adhesive tape so as not to accidentally damage the adjacent varnish.
With a triangular file or screwdriver and sanding paper no. 120, remove visible rust and rust hidden by bubbles.
With sanding paper No. 320, sand in advance the area around the damage in a width of about 1-2 cm to a healthy varnish.
Grind galvanized surfaces of the body, if possible, only to the primer, and not to the galvanized surface.
Applying a corrosion protection primer (Primer)
Wipe the repair area with nitro thinner and remove grease and dust with a clean cloth, let dry.
To avoid further problems, the Primer and the top coat to be applied must be from the same production. Otherwise, the varnish may later blister or shrink.
"Primer" sprayed onto rust-free tin from a distance of 25 cm. To prevent the smallest spray of aerosol from falling on adjacent parts, glue the surface around the repair site with paper and adhesive tape.
Spraying can be repeated after 10-15 minutes. If a putty is required after spraying, the Primer should be allowed to dry.
Putty
There are 2 types of putty: two-component putty and thin putty. The two-component putty is mixed shortly before processing with a hardener. It causes a rapid hardening of the putty, which can be processed shortly thereafter. This putty is used to level larger body irregularities. Thin putty is decorative, smoothing out small irregularities. It can be applied in several layers. Both types of putty are available in tubes and cans, filling putties are also available in aerosol packaging.
Attention! Although it is indicated on the can that putty can be applied directly to the cleaned tin, just in case, we recommend that you pre-treat the tin "Primer" (corrosion protection).
Apply two-component putty to the straightened or fibreglass-reinforced repair area and allow to cure. Follow the putty manufacturer's instructions.
After drying, sand the irregularities by hand or with a superfinishing head. Sanding paper No. 180 should be used for this. Wet sanding paper can be used. In this case, moisten the repair area with a wet sponge, and from time to time pour enough water on the sanding paper during the sanding process.
Finally, thoroughly clean the repair area and let it dry.
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Cover the repair area with thin putty using a wide, flexible plastic spatula and let it dry for at least two hours. In places of repair on roundings and contours, the use of a thin putty in an aerosol can is recommended.
Depending on the thickness of the layer, thin putty should dry for 2-3 hours.
Grinding
Sanding paper of various grain sizes is available for sale. The smaller its number, the coarser the grinding. For sanding two-component putty, grit size from No. 180 to 240 is recommended; filler putty and old varnish are sanded with sanding paper No. 360 with moisture. For the last wet sanding before varnishing, sanding paper no. 600 is recommended.
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Sand the prepared puttied place with wet paper No. 360, while constantly squeezing the wet sponge over the recommended place. Immerse the sponge from time to time in clean water and let it soak completely with water.
The special wet sanding paper no. 600 is best suited for the subsequent wet final sanding and can also be used for sanding border varnish and spray paint. The remaining microscopic scratches on the top coat are hardly noticeable.
Cleaning
Before applying the lacquer coating, the surface to be sanded and the adjacent lacquer surface about two palms wide must be cleaned of grease and silicone residues. Silicone remover works best for this.
After sanding, thoroughly clean the repair area and cover all adjacent surfaces with newsprint and adhesive tape. When varnishing the fenders, carefully glue the tires and shock absorber.
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If possible, always cover the repaired area so that the surface to be sprayed reaches the nearest decorative strip or the edge of the bodywork, as paint streaks always form at the edge of the painting. If a relatively smooth transition to a branded varnish is not possible, then paste over at a distance of approximately the width of two palms from the place of repair.
Spray the floor with water to prevent dust from settling.
Varnishing process
To avoid problems during the varnishing process, the pre-applied Primer must be manufactured by the same company as the spray varnish. The varnish in this case will not form bubbles and shrink.
Attention! We recommend that you first practice applying varnish, for example, on an old wing.
The surface to be varnished must be dry and dust-free. If possible, blow it with compressed air.
Moisten the floor with water to prevent dust formation.
Wipe the repair site and surrounding area with silicone remover. An even more optimal base for a topcoat will be created by wiping with a polishing paste that removes silicone.
Shake the aerosol can vigorously for at least 3-5 minutes before use, otherwise the varnish will streak on the surface.
When varnished "metallic" Apply a small amount of spray paint to some cardboard to remove any metal particles deposited on the riser tube.
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Large vertical and horizontal surfaces are sprayed with varnish "crosswise": start spraying outside the surface and continue to move the jet in the other direction, also starting from the outside.
Small surfaces are sprayed in a spiral from outside to inside to avoid overspray.
Guide aerosol packaging at a uniform speed and at the same distance (about 25cm) from the surface.
To ensure a transition to a healthy varnish as imperceptibly as possible, it must be applied in at least four overlapping spray strokes. Each individual application should increase the surface of the previous applied layer by 2-3 centimeters.
Attention! If spraying is carried out at too close a distance, the spraying movement is too slow or occurs at a variable speed, so-called varnish runs occur. This means that in some places the varnish flows down, because too much of it is sprayed onto the same place. The same happens if, when changing direction during spraying, the sprayer does not pass through a closed surface.
Repeat the spraying process with 5 minute pauses to evaporate the solvent until there is sufficient varnish coverage. Between individual spraying strokes, especially for "metallica", shake the aerosol can, as the particles "metallica" are quickly defended.
Attention! For varnish "metallic" it is very difficult to achieve a color match with a branded varnish. Pigmentation (aluminum particle distribution) will be more even if the last spraying process is carried out from a distance of 30 cm rather than 25 cm.
For lacquer "metallic" provided base coat "metallic" coated with a transparent lacquer, only after that the lacquer "metallic" takes on its brilliance. Spraying occurs 3-4 times, and each time you should pause for a few minutes. Before the first application, the base varnish must be left open for at least 30 minutes. transparent (transparent) The varnish should overlap the new base varnish by approximately the width of the palm, before that, lengthen the protective paper accordingly.
Empty the aerosol can. To do this, install the aerosol can on the head and spray the paint until there is none.
Remove all protective coatings immediately after finishing painting work.
Let the varnished surface dry. Drying can be accelerated with a strong photo or reflector lamp.
Attention! Do not use a fan, as swirling dust particles may be deposited on the fresh varnish as a result.
After the paint has hardened, after at least 48 hours, carefully remove the sprayed mist on adjacent surfaces with a soft polish and a cotton swab. Polish only in the longitudinal direction of the vehicle.